The prophet from Vienna…

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If you take the first two letters of the motto water, air, light and sun in German, wasser, luft, licht and sonne, it spells Waluliso. That was the pseudonym chosen by the self proclaimed prophet Waluliso, a Viennese peace activist. I first saw him in 1990 as he strode across the Stephansplaz, the square beside St. Stephen’s Cathedral in Vienna, surrounded by a flock of fluttering pigeons, creating quite a scene. He was dressed in a toga, wore a head wreath of olive branches, carried a crook and always had an apple in his hand. He looked like a man on a mission. He was in fact a man on a mission. He was Ludwig Weinberger, he worked tirelessly for the preservation of Danube Island in Vienna in the 70′s and peace & disarmament throughout the 80′s. He was there, front and centre when the Berlin Wall came down. He certainly was a bit of a character.

Who cares? He’s gone and that time has past. I thought of him recently because of a quote I saw that was shared on Facebook. There was nothing wrong with the quote but it made me think how easy it is to seemingly take credit for a clever piece of writing by sharing it on Facebook, without our being the author.  Sharing those quotes is beneficial of course, we all do it and it brings awareness to situations that need to see the light of day. It’s a much different thing however to live out those convictions that we so ardently support. And that was precisely what he did, he was dedicated to his causes. He didn’t just talk a clever line about how all things should be in a harmonious world and hide behind platitudes written by armchair philosophers. First of all he lived in nine square meters from 1944 until his death in 1996, he thought more space would be extravagant when so many in the world had less. He got out there, created a character for himself which drew attention to the things he believed in. There was no social media, he couldn’t build a following on-line, he stood out there in the square and engaged as many people as he could. He lived it and I admire him for that. I certainly don’t have the courage that would take. On June 7th, 1998 a bridge was dedicated in his honour that takes pedestrians and cyclists over the Danube to the island he worked so hard to protect. Nice.

 

Sacré Coeur on a stormy day.

There are thousands photographs taken at Sacré Coeur Basilica in the Montmartre area of Paris every year.  Some of them are extraordinary! So trying to find a different view of this famous landmark is very challenging. When I showed up at the foot of this amazing structure the weather was not helping, stormy with poor light conditions. But I was there and didn’t know if I would be back at that very spot, so thought I might as well give it a go anyway.

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I thought it would be a great a idea to walk up the spiral staircase inside the church up to the dome at the top to see the amazing view of the city. If you are claustrophobic, which I am, it’s not the best idea. The staircase is very tight and fairly dark and only gets smaller the higher you go. I was almost in a panic as I finally made it the 25 stories to the top. If I hadn’t made the climb I would have missed the first photograph here, taken at the very top. The slate roof tiles are topped with these interesting circular architectural elements, overshadowed by the church spire.

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Back down to earth [luckily didn't have to take the stairs both ways] the sky was darkening quite quickly. There was time for one more shot before the rains came. The photo above is a bronze statue of Joan of Arc seemingly protecting Sacré Coeur atop the grand entrance.

A performance on a Paris bridge…

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Pont au Double links Ile de la Cite to the Left Bank in Paris. Sunday is the day for taking a stroll and the bridge is busy with Parisiennes as well as tourists enjoying the scene. There is music, portrait painters and many other distractions to occupy your afternoon. One young woman thought it may be fun to do her own tightrope performance on the bridge, high above the river below. Much to the surprise and bemusement of her boyfriend she hopped up on the railing, walked along the length of the bridge, jumped down at the end and kept on walking as if there was nothing to it at all. There was a lot of whistling and clapping as the two of them disappeared down the street. I’m glad I was there!

We still love you at 84…

Last week the wonderful woman who has cleaned our office for years left me a note to tell me she cleaned on Wednesday instead of Saturday because that day her Mom would turn 84. That made me think about my Mom, Dorothy, and I realized that she too would have turned 84 years old, a few days later on this 8th of March. We lost her however at 78, a few days after her birthday that year.

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I think of Mom very often as does my sister Bonnie, Mom’s best friend. Or maybe it was my aunt, my sister’s namesake who was her best friend, it’s too close to call. Nevertheless, it’s strange first of all to feel like an orphan and secondly to realize that with the passing of your parents that you are now the ‘older’ generation. I’m not sure I like that very much, but the facts are the facts.

My mother wanted to be a journalist but she didn’t get the chance to pursue that dream. She was a great writer as well as a talented watercolorist, a very creative lady who always encouraged my attempts at creativity. I am grateful to her for that and everything else she sacrificed for our family. Dorothy never lost her dignity for even a moment, setting the bar high for the rest of us. Happy Birthday Mom! We all miss you more than we can possible begin to express…

How could I forget Ronnie Wood…

A few days ago I started to add some photos to a new gallery on my Facebook page. One of them was a photo of Rolling Stone, Ronnie Wood. A couple of my friends called to ask me where I found that shot. I told them I took the photograph myself. I didn’t mention that I had completely forgotten about those photos until I started scanning the negatives that I have from the time ‘before digital’ in a land far, far away.

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The Langley Times, in Langley of course, had an ad salesman Scott MacKay at one time who also wrote a music column for the paper. He would go to concerts, take photos of the acts and then write a review for his column. One dark and very rainy night he had to attend a birthday party [apparently] and asked me to take his place at a concert in Vancouver at the Commodore Ballroom. Ronnie Wood was touring with his own band between concert dates with the Stones. He has performed and recorded with a variety artists over his career.

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His visit to Vancouver was in support of his album Slide On This, along with Bernard Fowler and Ian McLagan with him on stage. Why I remember that, I have no idea. I do remember that there was a bit of a mixup with the local media for that concert. Wood’s wife Jo was filming the tour and for this concert there was to be no video access as a result. Local media mistakenly thought there was no media allowed at all so come concert time there was just me, and one real photographer, from the Sun. It’s usually crowded in the pit [the area behind the fence right in front of the stage] and you usually have to jockey for position. That night we spent the entire time for the three allotted songs, moving easily from spot to spot getting the photos we were looking for.

Ronnie Wood seemed to be a pleasant guy, quite different from the reports about his life we’ve all seen over the news in the last few years. He popped by the side of the stage to make sure we had what we needed after the first set, the music was great and the band put on a fine show. I wonder what else I have forgotten that I’ll come across next…

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Breakfast at the Royal Hotel Cafe

There’s something about breakfast out on a Sunday morning with Kate that I really enjoy. And I mean a real breakfast, not sawdust tofu pretend sausages and chemical egg-white slop from a milk container. No, real bacon and eggs with fried potatoes and sourdough toast lathered in butter. Not deep fried potato nuggets passed off as fried spuds either, boiled potatoes that have then been cut up and fried in something like butter, oil or bacon grease. Yummmm!

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Welcome to breakfast at the Royal Hotel in Chilliwack. There are healthy choices on their menu, I just gloss over those looking for the good stuff though. Why this spot for breakfast? Maybe it reminds me of the diners I went to as a kid with my parents and sister Bonnie as we travelled around this country. Mostly we go to the Royal because the food is great, but the restaurant is also in a 100 year old hotel which is just very cool in itself. The floors are the original hardwood, there are the old style booths, photos of the early days of the city on the walls, it just exudes atmosphere. They don’t have to manufacture it, it just comes naturally with the place.

We’ve been going there for a while now, most Sundays it’s the usual suspects first thing in the morning. Like us they shuffle in looking for that first coffee that will get the engine started while they check out the menu. All ages, they are quiet, just nodding as they arrive, it’s their best kept secret for a great start to their day.

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Antiques fill the entrance of the hotel, they didn’t have to go looking for them, they were already there. This is not slick like a chain restaurant, but it is delightful, and the food is first rate. It’s all served on Sunday mornings by Katelynn, a bright, chipper, smiling young woman who just makes the experience that much more enjoyable. We’ll look for you next Sunday morning a little before nine…

Cabris France… ceramique d’art

A friend of mine, Tony has set out to scan all his old photos this year from his archives of many years ago. I’ve been wanting to do the same but the job is daunting, I have thousands of 35mm negatives. So he got me going down this road and this story is possible because I have old negs from 1990 in Cabris and digital shots I took when we returned there in 2009.

In 1990 I met an artist, Francis Castlan, working just outside the door to his very old studio in Cabris. The studio was in Place Mirabeau, next to the church – Notre Dame de l’Assomption, a 17th century marvel. What started out as a few minutes to see the spectacular view from this unobstructed vantage point turned into an all day visit. I’d made a new friend. He had been there working most of his life, a colourful character full of stories about the area, the history and the celebs who visited and hid out from the noise of the world in this – at that point – unknown small town. It was one of the best travel days I’ve ever had, we sat at a small metal table and solved the problems of the world. There may have been wine involved.

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For many years I wanted to get back to Cabris and visit Francis again, but alas it wasn’t to be. I didn’t get back to Cabris again until 2009 and  found that he had passed away a few years before. He was gone, but his studio was still there. As we were about to leave, we realized that the man running the studio now, was in fact his son, Yves. We spoke about his father who he missed a great deal and he was very happy that someone thought enough of his dad to come back and visit him so many years later. I told him his father wasn’t easy to forget. He too was charming like Francis and had learned the craft from him when he was a kid growing up in the studio. That studio in a building hundreds of years old hadn’t changed at all, while the town around it certainly had. Still very picturesque, it had become busier since the onslaught of the Brits to the area during the “A Year in Provence” era. Yves gave me a post card that his father had kept because it reminded him of Cabris as it had been. That is the post card appearing in this blog, you can see the old church at the left in the background the studio Ceramiques D’art is next door. We had made another friend.

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Just across the way from Yves’ studio, another old building has been transformed into a fancy Auberge and the little table we sat years before has been swallowed up to become part of the restaurant. The view is just as spectacular, the little church beautiful, if you get the chance stop by for a visit. It’s never too late.

Cowboy Country Hawaii

From the beach at Mauna Lani in Makaiwa Bay you can see Kohala Mountain, an ancient dormant volcano above you. There is a line running across the mountain that is clearly visible. That is the Kohala Mountain Road, the heart of cowboy country, where many of the famous Big Island ranches are located. That’s right, ranches, just up from the beach. Well, quite a distance above the beach actually, in fact it’s in a completely different weather zone.

The most famous ranch on the island is the Parker Ranch, one of the world’s larger ranches in fact. There are ranches all along the Kohala Mountain Road that runs between Waimea and Hawi & Kapaau to the north. it is a spectacular drive with a great view of the coast far below. The weather is much cooler than at the beach, sometimes bright and sunny, just as often there could be a heavy mist drifting across the road and down into the valleys. It’s the edge of the rain shadow where the rain endsand the hills below are dry and parched while the mountain top and other side of the island are green and lush. The road alternates between the two extremes as it winds it’s way along the route. And then there is the wind. The wind is so strong that many of the trees are permanently bent way over, giving them a strange, horizontal posture. The wind howling through the trees in the pitch black night might just be a little eerie to say the least.

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Along the route there is a 5 mile stretch of ironwood trees on both sides of the road, planted in the early days of the Kahua Ranch.  It is picturesque and interesting, well worth exploring, remote even though the road is only 27 miles long. The elevation rises from the coast to almost 6000 feet at the summit.

There are more Cowboy Country photos in the gallery section and an additional Hawaii gallery here.

The Valley of Fire

Not that many people take the time to leave the slot machines and glitz of Las Vegas behind and head up to the Valley of Fire, the oldest Nevada State Park. It is a complex and beautiful Mohave Desert valley featuring ancient red sandstone formations, 3000 year old petroglyphs left by prehistoric man.

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The drive to the site about an hour and a half from Las Vegas on the backroads is as interesting as the valley itself. It was interesting to see trailers and motor homes out in the middle of the desert, were these snow birds from northern states or refuges from the hustle and bustle of the cities? But there they are, solitary sites with large US flags flying over the sites they call home. It is an isolated life, but there is a certain beauty to the stillness of the desert that stretches out in every direction.

 

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Kate and I feel very lucky for the opportunities we have to see different places, even those close to home. At the Valley of Fire we barley scratched the surface of what is available to experience when it comes to the history of the area. We’ll be back to have a closer look at the lives of the Basket Maker people and Anasazi Pueblo farmers, here at the valley and at the nearby Moapa Valley as well. We had some great dinners in Las Vegas and enjoyed the shows and sights there, but the Valley of Fire captivated me.

See more images in the galleries.

 

Las Vegas after 20 years.

Las Vegas is an illusion. Perhaps that’s why there are so many shows playing on the strip that celebrate that theme. I had my birthday there a week or so ago and it had been more than twenty years since I had seen America’s naughty playground. It must be naughty because there are billboards all over that city telling you that what happens in Vegas stays in Vegas.Is that why there are those persistent people on the busiest corners handing out cards that feature photographs of provocative ladies? There are trucks driving up and down the street with billboards on their sides featuring similar images. Mind you there are also travelling billboards running up and down the strip featuring buffets and spectacular Las Vegas style shows too. There’s something for everyone.

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The greatest illusion is walking down Casino row and feeling that you have been transported to Paris, or Venice or is it Lake Como, New York or Monte Carlo? The attention to detail is remarkable. Ever since Steve Wynn built the Mirage in 1989, the era of the mega resort has been in full swing. You can have breakfast in France, an authentic Italian lunch beside the Grand Canal and wrap up the evening in Times Square. Walking from place to place is the only way to get a picture of the scale and architectural wonders that create this Nevada oasis.

It’s clear that the economic health of the area is a bit shaky alright, there are many housing developments and retail strip malls without residents or tenants. But people keep pouring in from aircraft day and night at a busy international airport. It’s the first thing you notice when you arrive, they are constantly trying to manage crowds, right from the taxi stands at the airport to the unexplainable line-ups at buffets and long lines at popular shows. There are people everywhere, twenty four hours a day. Most mornings when we were having our bowl of cafe au lait and croissant at the Mon Ami Gabi sidewalk cafe, many revelers were just heading home to their hotels, still sipping giant drinks in odd shaped plastic containers.

We had a grand time, got some time out in the desert to visit some amazing landscapes and experience the quieter side of Nevada.

There’s also a gallery of Las Vegas images to see in the gallery section.